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Winter Boat Projects

Take the Off Season Time to Maintain Your Boat and Trailer

By , About.com Guide

Winter Boat Projects As winter sets in for the new year, many boating anglers in the north have taken their boats out of the water or brought them home from the coast. Shrink wrapped and closed up for the winter, the boats are going to sit for several months. That can mean some maintenance issues down the road.

In the southern states, fishing can and does go on through the winter - except on those very cold, windy days. But the fact remains that there are still several boat and trailer maintenance issues that need to be addressed by all boaters. The new year is as good a time as any to get started on them.

Winterizing

Winterizing is the process of preparing your engine for a long period of inactivity, particularly for extended periods of freezing temperatures. While not everything listed here is "necessary", I would suggest that you consider adding them to your list - you're into the engine anyway, so why not use this time to get it done.
  • Drain the Fuel Lines
    This procedure involves running the engine until it runs out of fuel. If you have a fuel shutoff valve, simply close it and let the engine run the fuel that is left in the lines. You want the fuel lines and the carburetor (if the engine has one) to be empty of fuel. Make sure you have connected a freshwater hose attachment while you run the engine, and this will help flush any salt out of the cooling system.
  • Fogging Oil
    Fogging oil comes in aerosol cans, and is used to coat and lubricate the cylinder walls of your engine. Once you have run the gas out of your fuel lines, take out the spark plugs, and spray the fogging oil into each cylinder. If your engine is carbureted, spray some oil into the carburetor as well. Once done, replace the plugs. Some newer fuel injected engines, like the Evinrude ETC series have a built in automatic fogging option that accomplished this task quite well.

    While the cowling is off for fogging, I also like to spray the entire visible engine head with a heavy coast of protective lubricant. I personally like the CRC 6-56 product. It drives out moisture, lubricates, and protects at the same time. I spray the entire visible engine head and all the hoses and wiring as well.

  • Drain the Cooling System
    Your engine will drain most of the water in it after running if it is left in the vertical position. Most anglers trailer their boat with the engine tilted to at least some angle. For the winter, the engine needs to be stored all the way down on the transom. So, when you park your boat for the winter, make sure you trim it down from the trailering position.

    Make sure you get all the water drained out of the engine. Water that is left standing in the cooling chambers in the head is subject to freezing. That means expanding and that can mean a cracked head if enough water is pooled in one area.

  • Treat Your Fuel
    Fill your fuel tank in order to leave as little air in the tank as possible. Use any of the recognized fuel treatments (Sta-Bil is the one I use) on the market and follow the directions for your particular gas tank and fuel amount. You do not want to allow untreated fuel to sit in your fuel tank over the winter. You also want to use an ethanol treatment. Actually, I use it with every tank of fuel. Ethanol (E-10) is and will continue to be a very bad thing, particularly for older engines and boats. E-10 attracts moisture and allows corrosion to set in inside the fuel tank. It also has a corrosive effect on hoses and gas lines in older engines. I just this year had to have three Yami carbs overhauled and all my fuel lines replaced thanks to E-10 gasoline. Many anglers on the coast have located dealers who sell ethanol free gasoline, and they will drive many miles out of their ay to get it.

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